Guide Speedy Pirans little adventure along the Pilgrims Way (Speedy Pirans Little Adventures Book 6)

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Phil Vickery's rise to fame ticks all of our boxes in terms of sport, inspiration food and passion. Although retired from the game he is still actively involved through coaching and commentating. We enjoyed a fantastic photoshoot with Phil to capture the spirit of The Raging Bull and have a selection of amazing photography that shows off our Raging Bull pasty to perfection! You'll see Phil in this photo — proudly showing off his latest Raging Bull pasties straight out of the oven!

You can buy a Raging Bull Pasty from any of our shops. The stamp of genuine approval. We've seen some excellent Pasty Fame photos this year taken from city centres, on the move, with the family, on your travels and adventures, daily life and even from the countryside! Now's the time to add some festive sparkle to your Pasty Fame snaps! We want to see YOU enjoying any Festive treat from The West Cornwall Pasty Co Christmas line-up - but here's the thing - to be in with a chance of winning be sure to include a sprinkle of festive fun in your photo!

You might be standing next to a Christmas Tree - under some twinkly Christmas lights, you might even be wearing your favourite Christmas hat or jumper - however you do it we'll give you full creative freedom to impress! Get snap happy and post your snaps as usual on our Instagram channel wcornwallpasty with the all important pastyfame - for every photo we see we'll be entering it into the Christmas prize draw and will be awarding 1st, 2nd and 3rd prize on Thursday 20th December for our favourite and most festive snap!

Competition is open to all UK residents aged 18 years and over and runs from Thursday 6th December to Thursday 20th December As well as our multi-award winning pasties we have just launched our new range of epic handmade cakes exclusively in our Burton Street Store in Bath. A deliciously decadent range of handmade cakes from chocolate fudge cake to Raspberry and Almond Frangipane Slice.

Over to you, Bath Eats! Please try these if you go and let us know what you think if you do. Head on down to our Bath Store for some delicious home baked treat and a cup of St Just Organic Coffee, the perfect winter warmer! We are dedicated to growing an eating culture that's easy, hassle free and available. World Vegan Day is celebrated around the world on 1st November but the plant based party doesn't stop there!

Making it easy for us to encourage the vegan-curious to give one of these delicious superstars a try! The demand for vegan food has never been greater as more and more people turn to plant-based diets for their health, the environment and animals. From high-end to the high street, varied and exciting vegan options are popping up everywhere. Major supermarkets, food companies, and restaurants have begun to embrace plant-based eating with new vegan products, menu items, and even whole ranges free of animal-based ingredients. We're committed to bringing authentic flavours of Cornwall to EveryBody!

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Both our Vegan Pasties are packed to the rafters with flavour, encased in a perfectly perfect hand crimped crust. A wholesome mix of comforting root veg with a little parsley and basil in wholemeal pastry casing. A special treat for vegetarians and vegans, our Thai Green Vegetable Pasty is a feast of green beans, green and red peppers, potato, sweet potato and onions with tasty Thai favourites - coconut, chilli, ginger, lime and lemongrass. Just ask in store for our delicious Organic St Just Coffee, dairy-free! We have a great range of sweet and savoury Vegan friendly snacks, but our favourite has to be the super tasty Golden Wedges!

One thing's for sure - hold tight and take a plunge into pure indulgence with a dollop of thick whipped cream topped with either realhoneycomb or crunchy gingerbread biscuit pieces. Barista made to order, ask for soya milk, decaff, or an extra syrup shot In stores from Saturday 6th of October. Fuelled by Cornish spirit and steely grit, Gareth Lancaster and his team of extraordinary fundraisers achieved a ride, nothing short of heroic.

Gareth is has been diagnosed with a rare form of cancer called Sarcoma. These odds are not pretty, but Gareth and his incredible team are changing that. Their aim to fund vital research projects looking for better treatments and raise awareness of the symptoms of sarcoma to help patients get an early diagnosis. Now considered an ultimate test of the legs and a rite of passage for devoted Cornish cyclists. The team of 14 covered miles over 3 days. Sleep deprived and pushed to their physical limits, they were rewarded with the occasional pub stop and made it in to Waterloo, London on Sunday afternoon to a hero welcome!

Be sure to call in over the Bank Holiday for your fix of great St Just Organic Coffee, your fill of our multi-award winning pasties, plus breakfast, lunch and everything in between. The list below lets you know if there are any changes to our Stores and Stations opening and closing times for Monday May 28 th. The list below lets you know if there are any changes to our Stores and Stations opening and closing times for Monday May 7th. Perfect for an office picnic or to share with friends! Try something new today! We've chosen to shine our birthday spotlight on the Traditional Cornish pasty for our Anniversary celebrations.

We love our 'Traditional' in all of its shapes and sizes - as part of our anniversary celebrations be sure not to miss The Beast! It's our biggest pasty to date - aptly named we think you'll agree! Take us up on our challenge? Grab a snap of you with 'The Beast' Pasty and use thebeast pastyfame on our social media channels and we'll be choosing our favourites for top pasty prizes!

Hint - top captions count! As a thank-you to you for your endless support and custom over the last 20 years, we've selected some Cornish gifts that sum up the simple pleasures of Cornish life for you to enjoy. This will mean with every purchase of our award winning Vegan Thai Green Vegetable Pasty you will get your choice of a FREE hot drink or ml water during the 30 day pledge throughout January. Cappuccino, latte, flat white It's the big one, the one you have all been waiting for!

All year round we receive daily updates via our social channels of you lovely lot enjoying our award winning pasties, warming cups of St Just Organic Coffee and of course the odd sweet treat here and there thrown in for good measure. It's been tough to say the least but we have managed to pick our top 16 of your snaps that have given us some extra happiness over in WCPCo HQ! We would like to say a MASSIVE thank you for your efforts and to every single one of you that has sent us a pastyfame snap this year- we salute you! We always love hearing your stories behind your pasty fame snaps and a particular one at the weekend caught our eye!

They would sit between my sister and me in the back seat, wrapped in paper bags, tea towels and a biscuit tin, smelling fabulous. We would try to get to Andover before eating them. The Wimbledon station branch did us proud, and my loyalty card looks good now! To my surprise, Emily who works with me had a day off and missed the event so baked this fantastic cake which I was blown away by. Want to be included? Make sure you get yours in pronto! Just tag us over on Instagram or Twitter in your snaps with pastyfame.

To celebrate we wanted to raise a glass of something delicious, packed with heritage and a story that could tell the tale of Great Britishness and the advent of Autumn. The answer was immediate and definite! Old Thumper Ringwood's most iconic beer was first brewed in late without a name. A competition in the local press inspired Joe Leedham from Broadstone, Dorset to come up with a suitable suggestion!

Palate Luscious balance of grain and hop in the mouth. Bitter sweet finish with delicate fruit notes. Head to our Facebook , Instagram or Twitter to enter. The winner can spend the pass on whatever they choose from our menu in stores. They will also receive via post a crate of 12x ml bottles of Old Thumper. This means you can get your West Cornwall Pasty fix whenever you please in the comfort of your own home- make sure you tweet us and show us how and where you enjoy yours via pastyfame!

We've been astounded with the popularity of the 'Everybody' and we now have the perfect and friendly solution to cope with the growing demand! Now you can either call your local store ahead to order or pop in and see us, order then You'll need to leave 40 minutes from ordering to picking up your Pasty or Pasties and we'll have your order ready for you to swing by the shop and collect. Please see all our Bank Holiday Monday opening hours below. Thanks to The British Baker for helping us spread the exciting news about our limited edition 'Mediterranean Vegetable' calorie pasty which is now available in stores nationwide throughout the Summer!

The Mediterranean Vegetable Pasty comprises authentic Greek feta and is packed with tomatoes, peppers, courgettes and oregano, finished in a light olive oil pastry. The company revealed that its new low-calorie pasty has been designed to reflect the freshness and tradition of the Greek Mediterranean diet. It is pasty perfection with only calories. As well as being created to be a great tasting lighter bite, our new Summer pasty has also been inspired by globetrotting travels. The Mediterranean Vegetable Pasty is a limited edition Summertime star so get it while you can!

We recommend calling into store and discovering how great calories really can taste! Perfect for snacks, lunch, a mid-afternoon bite or your evening meal. Pick up a quick sandwich made fresh to order and indulge in tasty cakes and treats! Our Bath store has opened today after being closed for a short time due to a beautiful interior refurbishment to turn it into a West Cornwall Food Co! We opened this morning thanks to the hard work of Stephen Tilley and the Bath team for getting the store set up in perfect time! We know you'll enjoy the changes and the team are really looking forward to welcoming you in for 'eat in' or 'take-out' breakfast, snacks, lunch, afternoon coffee and cakes, dinner, supper and everything in-between!

Of course we've already had queues for our freshly made sandwiches, multi award winning pasties, freshly made St Just Organic Coffee and luxury treats and cakes! Safe to say our twitter feed was a buzz of activity, with Philip even letting fans know that he grew up in Cornwall so when it comes to pasties he knows a thing or two, and judging by his choice at the weekend, he clearly does!

We had a great weekend at the Eden project, Cornwall at the sixth annual World Pasty Championships at the weekend. Here is the award winning pasty line-up! Check out Heidi Langford our Head of Product on the right! Our Cornish chefs had great success with two pasties that are coming up in store as Guest Pasties in the coming months.

We are delighted with the results and we're really looking forward The British Pie Awards on Wednesday! It's the perfect time, as Spring approaches to launch this special guest, plus it has a great story! This little beauty comes courtesy of a competition that was run via the Cornish radio station Pirate FM last Spring. The goal was to design a new pasty! Hundreds of entries later, the top ten were then whittled down to just three by public vote online.

In-store for a limited time - so all hail the mighty veggie! We've had SO MANY of you get in touch saying how excited you are that we have launched the Everybody Pasty - but that you're sometimes disappointed when we've sold out at your local store. We've been astounded with the popularity of the 'Everybody' and we have the perfect and friendly solution to cope with the growing demand. Of course - if you don't get chance to call and order we'll have daily freshly baked Everybody Pasties in the stores listed below We just can't guarantee we'll have them for when you need them - as they are selling faster than fast!

We have been inundated with requests for more of our shops to stock the Everybody Pasties - so we've extended our shops stocking our super popular Gluten Free and Dairy Free Pasties. The winners of the awards will be announced and presented on 28th March at an awards party at the Royal College of Physicians in London. Our Pasty for EveryBody is both Gluten and Dairy Free, packed to the rafters with Traditional tastes of Cornwall, encased in a perfectly perfect hand crimped crust.

Our EveryBody pasty is beautifully made in a dedicated gluten free factory which has all checks and measures in place to avoid gluten ever entering the factory. Before our pasties leave, a final positive release policy is in place which means random samples are sent for laboratory testing. We will be crossing everything for awards night next month! A unique pasty, packed full with award-winning haggis, the only haggis to have ever won a Great Taste Award!

We always love seeing your 'Pasty Fame' snaps on our social media channels and this week one particularly pasty devotee caught our eye! Mr Neil Banks has been making his way through our menu of pasty treats his favourite being Indian Butter Chicken since our store opened in the Airport back in December! This is a really inspiring story! Providing all your favourites and our best-selling pasties.

St Just Organic Coffee also plays a starring role - and we're serving up bespoke coffee brews - just how you like it! Don't forget to keep on posting your best snaps! We want to see your best Christmas pastyfame snaps over Christmas! We're dedicating this to our new ambassador Jack Nowell, who is a big selfie fan. We're looking for the most fun pastyfame snap - this could be you with your fav pasty, an arty photo of you and our new St Just Organic Coffee cup or it might even be you in one of our shops over the holidays chilling out and soaking up a bit of Cornish heaven.

You get extra spends for getting snapped with a 'Jack's Pasty' so make sure you let us know what you think of it! The winners will then notified which date and which location they will pick their prizes from. We have recently opened in London Stansted Airport. You'll find us nice and handy just before you go through security. You'll spot us from afar - just watch out for our yellow beacon, beckoning you over for a warm welcome. Expect our new look store - featuring soft timbers and soulful Cornish hues to make you feel right at home!

Call in for all of your favourites and our best-selling pasties. St Just Organic Coffee also plays a starring role - and we're serving up bespoke coffee brews - just how you like it. Wherever you're heading - we can guarantee you a freshly made taste of Cornwall, UK before you jet off on your travel adventures! Just remember - you've got a flight to catch - you can sit in or take-out! Make sure you tag us pastyfame and watch as you appear on our Wall Of Fame! Make sure you tell us where you're going!

Last night saw the stars out in full force for the legendary Q Awards. Rock and sausage roll hey?! We're proud to reveal that some of our all time favourites from our best selling range are now cooked to perfection and found in the chiller cabinet. We love that we'll be brightening your daily travel adventures with our authentic taste of Cornwall. Don't forget our pasties are freshly made in Cornwall and hand crimped to seal in our award winning flavour.

Be sure to let us know what you think and use wcornwallpasty on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. To appear on our Wall of Fame use pastyfame.

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When Exeter Chiefs got in touch with us to support their new charity calendar We jumped at the chance, especially because it involves one of the nicest men in rugby, Tom Johnson. Tom has played a key role in the success of the Exeter Chiefs and enjoyed the rare honour of playing for his country. The Calendar is in aim of Tom Johnson's testimonial year having been a loyal servant to Exeter Chiefs. His website is HERE. This isn't your usual Rugby calendar however It is all about elite sportsmen - showing off those long hours of hard work in training - with their kit off!

Among the stars of the calendar is England's Jack Nowell and Tom himself - and of course we're over the moon Tom stars on our page! The calendar was photographed in the grounds of the beautiful Rockbeare Manor, near Exeter by Phil Mingo. Each month has been dedicated to certain sponsors who has an association to those players featured in that month. Tom's testimonial is also supporting two very worthy charities, Exeter Foundation and The Royal Marines Charity of which are very close to his heart.

The calendar will be launched on Saturday, October There is 10, copies up for grabs and we know they are going to fly out - so be quick! We'd like to extend a huge thank you to everyone who entered our competition over the past couple of months to win a luxury 2 night mini-break at the beautiful Blue Hayes Hotel, St Ives, West Cornwall thanks to St Just Organic Coffee. We had over entries! We are delighted to announce our lucky winner is Nicola Weeks who will be heading off with her boyfriend to enjoy the break at the end of the month!

We look forward to hearing all about their Cornish adventure and seeing the snaps too! Watch out as we have another HUGE competition very soon! Come and find us at 43 High Street, Winchester. West Cornwall Food Co revolves around St Just - the brand's own organic fair-trade coffee range, freshly made sandwiches, cakes, doughnuts and cookies.

Fans of our multi-award winning, handmade PGI status Cornish pasties that parent brand West Cornwall Pasty Co is world famous for, will be pleased to see a best sellers range of freshly baked pasties in store. Our latest store has plenty of soft and cosy seating over all floors, plus watch out our for the beautiful paneling on the wall and the detail on the chimney breast on the first floor.

Gather your friends and family together and come for Breakfast, Coffee, Lunch, Snacks, Dinner and everything in-between! We even have a brand new sandwich deli counter - so it's even easier to choose your favourite fillings for your best sandwich ever! We're really excited that our Winchester shop is also home to some specially selected Cornish products. Beginning its life as a Roman town around 70AD. It developed from the town of Venta Belgarum, which in turn developed from an Iron Age oppidum.

The city is home to the University of Winchester and Winchester College, the oldest public school in the United Kingdom still to be using its original buildings. This has been dated to the 15th century, and features 12 statues of the Virgin Mary, saints and various historical figures. It is now a scheduled ancient monument. Our new concept has been incredibly well received and we're taking over the High Street! You'll see us on the High Street. We have seating for up to 52 guests, so perfect for Everyday call-ins! Cirencester is the first time we've introduced soft and cosy seating over all floors - so you can choose ground floor, first floor or second floor and be sure to grab a window seat to check out the bustling town views below.

We have restored and refurbished and have been lucky enough to be able to work with some of the building's original features including a beautiful fireplace and a stunning timber wall. We even have a brand new sandwich deli counter concept - so it's even easier to choose your favourite fillings for your best sandwich ever!

This is a limited offer! We're booking our places now!! Simply type in the password Sportcel where it says 'Offer Code' to get the discount. Hot topics included the new Everybody Pasty our Gluten Free and Dairy Free best-seller, areas and growth and of course the all important success of the business and the vision for the future. For when you're out and about enjoying life on Bank Holiday Monday We wanted to let you know about changes to our usual opening hours on Monday.

Chippenham 10am —4pm Chichester 9am —5pm Bath 10am —6pm Cirencester — 9. We are committed to Making Travel Tasty! We are now open in Surbiton! You'll find us in our beautiful new home in Surbiton Station, which has to be one of the most striking stations around For lovers of Art Deco architecture and multi award winning pasties - it is all about Surbiton! You'll find us perfectly placed, just off the ticket hall. We're continuing our theme of making the most of original features and we're loving the original white stone, rich dark timber doors and window frames of our new home.

We're also delighted that we have an original timber herringbone floor as well, which goes perfectly with our Cornish heritage interior theme for our new look shops in the UK. What are you waiting for? We're ready with our multi-award winning pasties including guest pasties and all of your favourite best sellers! Call over to see us for breakfast, lunch, snacks, St Just Organic Coffee,cold drinks, time fillers, drinks and dinner.


  • Uomini senza vento (Italian Edition).
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Who doesn't love a picnic? We're big champions of picnicking everywhere! Grab a picnic on your travels, why not a picnic at your desk, jump on your fav picnic bench in your local park or better still dig out your picnic blanket, stash your hamper with all the good things in life and hit the beach! But what about a deliciously refreshing Gluten Free ice cold beer to go with it? Simply Follow the Page and RT the pinned tweet! We are delighted that the winner of last week's 15th Julynd July prize was Hannah Martin. Hannah says ' i'm totally delighted! Thank you so much guys!!

Such a scrumptious prize! Pre-lunch, lunch, after lunch snack, tea, dinner, supper we'll be there for you. By EveryBody we're talking about literally everyone! Anyone with a love of Pasties who wants to relish the freshly baked flavours of Cornwall. In our sweeping statement of Everyone we are of course including everyone that need to be extra careful around Gluten and Dairy. Soon to be available from all Waitrose stores nationwide, CELIA is brewed with Saaz Hops and a natural carbonation process to create a non-bloating refreshing lager with a delicate bitterness, which also has the added benefit of being wheat and gluten free.

CELIA Organic is batch brewed in the cellars of a 14th century castle to create a hand-crafted, premium Czech lager with a refreshing bitterness and a hint of citrus. Every batch of CELIA also benefits from a silicon filtration process, ensuring it is vegan and gluten free. We've already given away our brand new guest pasties for you to try this month. This time it's all about our delicious organic coffee blend You haven't got long!

You have till Friday! The winner will then notify us of their nearest WCPCo branch, the winner will be entitled to 1x regular cup of St Just Coffee Mon-Fri throughout the month of July from their chosen branch. Have you met our Guest June pasties? Hopefully they'll share with you! The winner will be picked at random on 27th June and will have just the rest of the month to claim their prize! Call in and see us while you're enjoying your shopping and find us in our beautiful new shop in the Food Court. There is plenty of seating in the Food Court so come and pay us a visit and let us take care of breakfast, lunch, snacks, hot drinks, cold drinks, time fillers, drinks and dinner!

We place the highest regard for pasty excellence and have been recognised for this at The World Pasty Championships where we took the crown for World Champion for our traditional pasty in and again in St Just is an uplifting blend to revive both body and mind. We make our coffee bespoke to you so enjoy cappuccino, latte, espresso Call by for Coffee and Cake! And stay for lunch and enjoy a freshly made sandwich. Come and find us!

We're going to be inviting you all in on the adventure with competitions, invites in-store to sample our new Organic blend and of course we can't wait to hear what you think! Our test kitchen has already reported that St Just Organic has 'an initial sweet and full bodied 'mouthfeel' with notes of chocolate and deep caramel with a slightly spicy finish' To go with our new Organic coffee blend we have a tremendous new cup! We'll be letting you know when the cup is in-store - but for now - read all about it HERE.

Some of our usual opening times are slightly adjusted. Be sure to call in over the Easter break to get your fix of great St Just Coffee, your fill of multi award winning pasties, plus breakfast, lunch and everything in between! We'll be taking a mini Easter break in a couple of high street shops, and will be closing on Easter Sunday in Hereford, St Albans and Banbury.

Enjoy the Bank Holiday wherever your adventures take you! Remember to hop on Twitter and show us your best snaps! Tag them with pastyfame and you'll appear on our Wall of Fame! Read about our entries HERE! You're too late to enter, but you can watch!

Walking the Pilgrim's Way in Kent

Let's make the most out of these chilly months! Let's relish in the happiness of getting wrapped up and warming the cockles of our hearts with wholesome goodness! Enjoy a regular size award winning pasty, perfectly seasoned wedges and your choice of mushy peas or beans. Warming food and drink options made super easy.

We are delighted to feature in Men's Fitness Magazine -the go-to mag for all things good to keep tip top shape! We appear in a feature named 'The World's first Packed Lunch' - perfect really as we are the original food on the move. Here's what they say! Before the industrial revolution and the advent of Tupperware if men wanted to eat during the day they had to get creative. This classic pastry parcel came to prominence as a lunchtime for tin miners during the 18th Century. It was ideal fuel for a gruelling day of manual labour, perfectly packaged in an edible outer.

West Cornwall Pasty Co 'If you're trying to loose weight go for a West Cornwall Pasty Co wheatmeal vegetable pasty, a vegetarian friendly option which swaps blood sugar spiking white pastry for the wheatmeal variety to help limit fat storage and control hunger cravings. We're going back this year with our Traditional Pasty to go for the Triple!

Last year our Traditional Pasty represented us in the competition and was scored an impressive 92 points out of by expert judges. We faced stiff competition with over entries from an international line up. This year we're heading back to The World Pasty Championships with two entries. Read more HERE for the full winning story! The World Pasty Championships are on the 5th of March The annual celebration is always a showcase for home-grown musical and comedy talent and culminates in the much-anticipated Oggy Oscar ceremony — and this year it takes place on St Piran's Day!

West Cornwall Pasty Co Ltd, the UK's largest pasty operator has announced impressive results following phase one of a dynamic repositioning period. The brand has become known for its multi award winning, handmade PGI status Cornish pasties and burgeoning own brand coffee label - St Just. Investment into a complete repositioning of the West Cornwall Pasty Co brand over the past year has paved the way for the fast track turnaround bolstered by strong customer communications at store level and vibrant, interactive customer communications on a digital level. Measurable results from new store designs, broader product ranges and simplification of pricing across the retail estate has given confidence for expansion of the retail estate in transport hubs, sporting venues and the leisure events market.

Despite the challenging loss of two retail sites, where it was not possible to agree terms with the landlords to remain in occupation, growth strategies for the railway station estate have been put in place to compensate and are showing a strong sales performance. Further sales channels will continue to be explored for growth opportunities both within the UK and export markets either through brand licensing and product supply arrangement or wholly managed retail units. We'd asked you earlier in the year to chart your daily life adventures as you travel about enjoying our pasties and you've jumped to the task most magnificently!

We see our pasties popping up on epic walks, in fields, out on shopping trips, on trains, in cars, with four legged friends, with close friends having a giggle and you've even been spotted on the beach! We're thrilled to see you out and about having fun with West Cornwall Pasty Co! Thanks so much for sharing your adventures with us!

Remember to tag your best snaps with pastyfame or westcornwallpasty and you'll appear on our Wall of Fame! This year we've created sublime Cornish Christmas treats to fuel and indulge you through the festive season to warm you up, to delight and of course to satisfy you on your daily life adventures. We've taken our inspiration this year from our perfect Cornish Christmas Hamper - Our Seasonal Best includes all of our favourite aromas, tastes and flavours from the festive season.

Of course our Cornish heritage is the beating heart of our Festive Menu. Enjoy our pasties hand made in Cornwall and relish our heritage style hand crimped crusts. NEW for Christmas we've introduced 2 flavours of artisan chutney to choose between or maybe have both! Caramelised Red Onion chutney as a match made in Christmas pasty heaven! Served warm and delicious! When your stamp card is full enjoy a Loyalty Card Points Boost of points. Once back there he would devour the sailors for his supper. Plus - finest Cornish steak is a vast improvement on sailors anyday We have a feeling that he would have enjoyed the Cornish Tribute Ale as well!

Watch out for the Piskies! The Piskies were all identical little people, no higher than an inch tall. The wore red caps, white waistcoats, green stockings, and brown coats and trousers. On their feet they wore brightly polished, buckled shoes. The Piskies were good people who helped the old, but they were mischievous and played pranks on people.

Tin miners had their own superstitions. If they met a bullhorn or snail on the way to work, they avoided ill luck by giving it some of their dinner. We say that a crumb our Cornish Hand Crimped Pies are the perfect mealtime snack to dodge any bad luck Of course the probability of seeing a frog or a snail en route to work is slightly slim Always save a bit About two feet tall and grizzled, but not misshapen, they live beneath the ground.

Here they wear tiny versions of standard miner's garb and commit random mischief, such as stealing a miner's unattended tools and food - they were often cast a small offering of food - usually the crust of a pasty - to appease their mischief making. Our Traditional Cornish Pasty , the diamond in our pasty estate crown, our multi award winning Cornish recipe is too good to to share But in this case we feel it absolutely necessary!

Legendary Giant Hunger One giant in particular named Cormoran. With a growling stomach he would wade ashore and feast on cows and sheep stolen from the villagers but he met his match in a local boy named Jack who dug a deep pit in which Cormoran fell to his death. We have a feeling that Cormoran should have just called in for a delicious 'Make a Meal of it ' A plate packed full of pasty, wedges or mash, peas or beans. It is said to be the lake, in Arthurian legend, that the mortally wounded King Arthur threw Excalibur after the fateful battle of Camlann against the scheming Mordred.

A lady's hand rose from beneath the waves to catch the magical sword, before returning to the depths. We hear that the Lady of the Lake has been known to raise her hand to the passing traveller in case a brew of Cornish St Just coffee is to hand We have had a wonderful response with amazing entries which we are now working through to decide the winner who will be entered into the World Pasty Champs in March We're looking for the next big name in savoury pasty creation!

Calling all dreamers who have ever wanted to see their dream pasty in the crust! You may dream of a breakfast pasty, a Cornish supper pasty, a pasty inspired by holidays and travel, it maybe something that you've always hungered for — your favourite ingredient! It maybe a pasty that we don't have on our menu and you strongly feel it should be! This is the first time West Cornwall Pasty Co have run the competition which will be launching today! As you know we are famed for our award winning Cornish pasties and are the existing World Pasty Champions for and in the Traditional Cornish Pasty category.

Our winner will be chosen by an expert pasty panel and the winning pasty recipe will be refined and developed by the West Cornwall Pasty Co development team. Heidi Langford West Cornwall Pasty Co's Head of Product comments; 'we're looking for an outstanding pasty recipe that will not only wow the judges at the World Pasty Championships but will also delight our daily customers around the UK. We're looking for innovation matched with a great story about why ingredients have been chosen and we're particularly interested in stories linking the entry back to Cornwall and the reasons why'.

The winning pasty and its carefully chosen name will not only be entered by West Cornwall Pasty Co in the 'Open Savoury' company category of the World Pasty Championships but it will also appear in 30 of the West Cornwall Pasty Co shops as a named guest pasty. The prize includes 1 night accommodation in Cornwall and entry into the Eden Project for 2 guests.

Ladies and Gentlemen — we offer you - Pasty Fame! The entry must be made online at HERE please read the competition t's and c's. After you have entered why not tell the world! Hop on our Facebook , Twitter and tell everyone! Use the PastyDreamers and we'll be picking a post at random with a Loyalty Card boost reward every week.

The entry is for a savoury pasty only - entered into the 'Open Savoury' company category. Recipes for Traditional Cornish Pasties will not be shortlisted. We love a good helping of good news! We could resist telling sharing a message from a newly converted West Cornwall Pasty fan and the shout out we had in Mountain Bike Rider magazine. Really great to get some great comments from a new fan! This is an extract of a message from Timothy Starkie 'The pasty also tasted excellent with great depth in filling.

I can now see myself becoming a regular consumer of your pasties. Our Social feeds on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram are always buzzing with news, views and feedback — hop on and let us know your experiences! We're into our second week of our PicnicEverywhere game! All you need to do is take a snap of your breakfast, lunch, coffee, snacks, tea and cake, dinner and use the hashtag PicnicEverywhere! The winner will be judged on fun factor and also any witty caption you may come up with to accompany your snap! We'll reveal this week's winner on Friday. That highly anticipated time of the year!

Come rain or shine we don't care! We say call into any of our shops and get yourselves a tasty Picnic! Everything on our Menus is a match made in Picnic Heaven. Picnics to share, Picnic for one, a Pasty Picnic, a coffee and cookie Picnic, a pasty, wedges and smoothie Picnic — the combinations are endless! Visit our Menu to choose your favourite combination! Now to where to Picnic? On the grass, on a wall, at your desk, in the car, on the beach, on the train, on the bus, on the go You don't even need an excuse, good weather or even a picnic blanket Hey — this is — let's throw convention to the wind and scrap the hamper as well!

We'll be choosing the best snap the one that makes us smile! We'll then be in touch to confirm your Loyalty Card number and we'll credit you points. If you haven't already got one — please collect a Loyalty Card from your nearest store they are free! You'll need to register your Loyalty Card online. You need a Loyalty Card to participate. Sustenance and tasty mealtimes for a super talented cast and crew? The Football Association have commissioned WONDERKID which is a minute short film that follows the inner turmoil of a young unnamed gay footballer as he comes to terms with his own identity, struggling to reconcile his sexuality with his issues with alcohol and Obsessive Compulsive Disorder.

Think your favourite sausage roll with a delicious pairing of poshest and tastiest pickle wrapped in crispy pasty — and yes — you got it Posh Pork and Pickle Roll heaven! The perfect fruity, juicy refreshment this Summer! We have a jam packed schedule for our special edition PastyTrucks in May. This means you'll be able to enjoy the best sporting fixtures in the UK whilst enjoying our multi-award winning pasties! A match made in heaven! Royal Windsor Horse Show: England v Barbarians 31st May. Wherever you're doing in May, have a superb time!

If you're not out and about watching sport - we'll be there for you on the high street, travel hubs and kiosks We've teamed up with our friends at Heat Magazine to give you the chance to win one of our multi-award winning pasties everyday for a year! In the name of all things Cornish we have jumped to the rescue and we've offered the rather fabulous prize of pasties for a year for one lucky winner. All you have to do is get hold of this week's Heat Magazine cut out your Poldark mask — take a funny photo of you wearing it and post it on heatworld with pastypoldark make sure you use westcornwallpasty to appear on our Wall of Fame!

Heat Magazine will be choosing the winner on the 11th May Fresh, fruity and delicious? AND the ultimate in thirst quenching happiness? Yes indeed it does. We're pleased to introduce our new bottled water range to all shops and travel hubs to pave the way for Summer. We've got the perfect pairing for a nice refreshing drink of Aqua Splash water!

The sun is shining! Summer is on its way! What better time to announce our luxury ice-cream range? We are proud to announce that our ice-cream range will be launching in Brighton, Chichester Guildford, Norwich, Winchester from today. We've gone all out indulgent and have focused on making sure our gelato style ice-creams are as creamy and as luxurious as possible.

We've chosen 3 flavours to start with classic and creamy Vanilla, rich and indulgent chocolate and fresh and tasty Mixed Berry. Gorgeously smooth and swirly, easy to eat on the move or grab a sunny spot somewhere and enjoy! We can't wait to hear what you think! Make sure you take a photo and share on your Social Media! Tag us in with westcornwallpasty to appear on our Wall of Fame and let us know your favourite flavour. We'd love to see you for breakfast, lunch, snacks, hot drinks, cold drinks, time fillers, drinks and dinner.

Enjoy our multi-award winning pasties in comfort on the high street or take-away on the go! We're thinking Easter time is the perfect time to indulge in our Gourmet Hot Chocolate! Beautifully rich milk chocolate topped with fresh whipped cream and deliciously perfect marshmallows!

Who said it was all about the Easter Eggs! All of our shops are open over the Easter Weekend with the exception of Banbury, Hereford, Guildford and Chippenham which will be closed on Easter Sunday. Please note some our shops opening hours may vary slightly over the Bank Holiday.

Make sure you take a snap of your Bank Holiday adventures and tag westcornwallpasty so you appear on our 'Get Social' Wall of Fame! Bring out the bunting and wave some flags! Our new look website is proud to reveal our Loyalty Card system! Here are the instructions! Make sure you follow them for Loyalty Happiness. Simply ask for one by name and we'll hand one over! Visit our website and hit the Loyalty tab. Register your card and fill your details in. You'll be able to keep checking back once you've registered to see how many points you've accumulated and what that value is.

Simply find your Loyalty Card it will be pride of place in your wallet or purse — we're sure and log on to refresh your memory on the points you've collected historically. Indulgent Caramel Latte anyone? We are victorious for a second year! Our Traditional Pasty represented us in the competition and was scored an impressive 92 points out of by expert judges. Our goal was to fight to retain our World Champion title with our much loved Traditional Pasty — and we are so proud to scoop the win for two consecutive years.

Thank you to the thousands in the crowd who cheered us on!


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We are delighted to be returning to the World Pasty Championships in After scooping the win in ! Last year we took the crown of World Champion for our traditional pasty. This year we are entering into 2 categories 'Traditional' and the wonderfully named! We're entering our Traditional Cornish Pasty: Fiery beef chilli pasty made with diced skirt, kidney beans, smoky chipotle sauce and chorizo paste,with garlic and jalapenos in a rich tomato sauce.

About the World Pasty Championships 'As the Eden Project is based in Cornwall, our World Pasty Championships will celebrate the traditional Cornish pasty recipe, as well as some more unusual varieties. We are excited to bring you a new look for West Cornwall Pasty Co! Have a look around and make yourself at home!

You'll see you can sign up to our Loyalty Card, plus sign in to check your current balance to cash in for some treats. You'll also see our favourite deals that appear in our shops and hubs. Check out The Menu for a full range of mealtimes and snacks from first thing in the morning to last thing at night. You'll also see 'The Social' an image board of your images. Your chance at fame! Show us your life adventures with West Cornwall Pasty Co in your finest snaps with westcornwallpasty.

Check back and see us on The Bite. We'll be telling you about new products, updating you on new shops and openings and bringing you top stories from our suppliers and producers. It's a busy old business and we've sure got lots to tell you! Plus stay tuned for competitions and exclusive offers! As part of our on-going campaign to make your experience at any West Cornwall Pasty Co shop a really great one we have been investing into our interiors and exteriors.

We'll be telling you when the new look shops are open — so keep your eye out. We'll also be telling you when our brand new shops open in new locations. You'll find that our 'new look' shops have been inspired by Cornwall. Think traditional materials, heritage colours, views of the Cornish coast and produce from the Cornish lands. We've used honest and natural materials to soften and soothe as well as providing a great environment to enjoy a pasty or a cup of St Just Coffee.

Our new look shops on the high street are also the perfect place to wander in from a shopping trip or a busy day at work, grab a seat and take the weight off. We've got a melt your heart romantic day planned for the 14th February. It really is that simple Buy one for you and one for your love. Buy one for you and the one you want to love. Buy one for you and one for you The options are endless! All we want is for you to fall in love With your favourite pasty, with a new pasty, with anyone you want to! Available 14th February only.

One redemption per person only. Offer not available at Moto or Twickenham. We were delighted to be a part of a very special event recently arranged by the Cornwall Hugs Grenfell charity. Here's the official word Over 50 unique, patchwork quilts by South West Quilters, each representing over hours needlework, were laid out for guests to choose from. Each quilt bore the name of the creator and their home town or village, giving survivors a real sense of connection with the West Country community, miles away.

When I wrap it around me I really do feel, Cornwall hugs Grenfell! Each one of our pasties are made in West Cornwall by Rowes bakery and hand crimped to seal in deliciously Cornish flavours. We're so pleased to extend a warm, hearty Cornish hug in a pasty to everyone who attended and hope that we have helped spread a sprinkle of golden Cornish goodness on this important anniversary".

Wishing you a Merry Cornish Christmas! Christmas Eve - Boxing Day - New Year's Eve - New Year's Day - New Year's Day - v. New Year's Eve - Normal times. Christmas Eve - 6: Boxing Day - Closed. New Year's Eve - 6: New Year's Day - 9: Christmas Eve - 5. Christmas Eve - 5: Boxing Day - 7: New Year's Eve - 5: New Year's Day - 7: Christmas Eve - 8: New Year's Eve - 8: New Year's Day - 8: New Year's Eve - 7: New Year's Day Boxing Day - 8: New Year's Eve - Normal.

Christmas Eve - 7: Our Christmas wish this year? Made in our bakery in West Cornwall, they are a twist on a Cornish classic, bursting full of taste and flavours wrapped up in our world famous golden pastry and sealed with our trademark hand crimped crust. We're dreaming of long hazy days spent behind a windbreaker with a newspaper, building sand castles, rock pooling, combing the beach for shelly souvenirs as the day stretches well into the evening with an authentic Cornish Pasty in hand.

To celebrate the great Cornish summertime in all it's glory, we've refined our ultimate wish list of West Cornish coves to a tidy top 5! Consisting of the most picturesque fishing villages, an ultimate beachy leg stretcher, an adventurers delight and a super romantic hideaway!

A real 'locals' beach, off the beaten track and tricky to find without local know how! Portheras is a lovely sandy cove located at the end of a shallow valley with sheer cliffs at the northern end. You'll often see families of seals bobbing their heads around these waters! Secluded and romantic with an olde-world poetic feel, and once a haunt for Cornwall's best known smugglers, The Carters, a family of smugglers in the 18th century, one of whom was known as the King of Prussia. Be warned, this little beauty spot disappears completely in high tide! Gunwalloe Church Cove Beach.

Gunwalloe is a gorgeous south-west facing cove on the 'Lizard' with a stream running through the sandy beach that is ideal for paddling and building sand castles! Not only a family fave, Gunwalloe is water sporting hotspot! Polurrian Cove lies close to the village of Mullion on The Lizard and is a southwest-facing beach with golden sand and patches of fine shingle.

Polurrian provides wonderful coastal walking opportunities and more challenging routes for the seasoned adventurer! Fortune favours the brave! South facing sheltered cove, surrounded by cliffs, you'll find a challenging route down to the beach but with serious rewards! This is for the true adventurers! We believe the pasty is a perfect beach snack! Naturally we'd go for the Traditional - to celebrate a beachy day in the homeland of course!

We are right in the middle of all the action! We're right there for you, everyday serving up our multi-award winning, freshly baked in-store pasties, with fantastic Vegan options! Not forgetting our excellent breakfast rolls, a great range of travel snacks and top notch St Just Organic Coffee, Barista made of course for coffee just how you like it!

You can also pick up one of our fantastic Kids Meals! The enlightened ruler this was written during the rule of Abbas Pasha knows his own interests, and never willingly parts with a subject liable to cess, at times objecting even to their obeying pilgrimage law. We, on the other hand, in India, allow a freedom of emigration, in my humble opinion, highly injurious to us. For not only does this exodus thin the population, and tend to impoverish the land, it also serves to bring our rule into disrepute in foreign lands. At another time I shall discuss this subject more fully.

The stucco employed in overlaying its walls, erected by Zul-karnayn, was so exquisitely tempered and so beautifully polished, that the inhabitants, in order to protect themselves from blindness, were constrained to wear masks. Some mis-spell the word "Kawas," "Cavass," and so forth! The word is derived from burmak, "to twist, to turn. It is generally used throughout the East, where brushes should be avoided, as the natives always suspect hogs' bristles.

The "rough and ready" traveller will learn to follow the example, remembering that "Nature is founder of Customs in savage countries;" whereas, amongst the soi-disant civilised, Nature has no deadlier enemy than Custom. This, however, does not prevent their being as necessary-especially in places like Alexandria, where Greek and Italian ruffians abound-as they ever were in Rome or Leghorn during the glorious times of Italian "liberty. At present, however, small change is dear in Egypt; the Sarrafs, or money-changers, create the dearth in order to claim a high agio.

The traveller must prepare himself for a most unpleasant task in learning the different varieties of currency, which appear all but endless, the result of deficiency in the national circulating medium. There are, however, few copper coins, the pieces of ten or five faddah or parahs , whereas silver and gold abound. As regards the latter metal, strangers should mistrust all small pieces, Turkish as well as Egyptian. Many have lost their lives by neglecting these simple precautions. It is a precaution well known to the wandering knights of old.

Others, again, in very critical situations, open with a lancet the shoulder, or any other fleshy part of the body, and insert a precious stone, which does not show in its novel purse. Sonnini, however, is right when he says of the Egyptian fellahs, that their stomachs, accustomed to digest bread badly baked, acrid and raw vegetables, and other green and unwholesome nourishment, require doses fit only for horses.

Advisable precautions are, in the first place, to avoid, if travelling as a native, any signs of European manufacture in knives, scissors, weights, scales and other such articles. Secondly, glass bottles are useless: By this means, ground glass stoppers and plentiful cotton stuffing, the most volatile essences may be carried about without great waste.

After six months of the driest heat, in Egypt and Arabia, not more than about one-fourth of my Prussic acid and chloroform had evaporated. And, thirdly, if you travel in the East, a few bottles of tincture of cantharides-highly useful as a rubefacient, excitant, et cetera-must never be omitted. I made the mistake of buying my drugs in England, and had the useless trouble of looking after them during the journey.

Both at Alexandria and Cairo they are to be found in abundance, cheaper than in London, and good enough for all practical purposes. IN the days of the Pitts we have invariably a "Relation" of Egyptian travellers who embark for a place called "Roseet" on the "River Nilus. A little later we find every one inditing rhapsodies about, and descriptions of, his or her Dahabiyah barge on the canal. After this came the steamer. And after the steamer will come the railroad, which may disappoint the author tourist, but will be delightful to that sensible class of men who wish to get over the greatest extent of ground with the least inconvenience to themselves and others.

Then shall the Mahmudiyah-ugliest and most wearisome of canals-be given up to cotton boats and grain barges, and then will note-books and the headings of chapters clean ignore its existence. I saw the canal at its worst, when the water was low; and I have not one syllable to say in its favour. Instead of thirty hours, we took three mortal days and nights to reach Cairo, and we grounded with painful regularity four or five times between sunrise and sunset.

In the scenery on the banks sketchers and describers have left you nought to see. The Nil al-Mubarak itself-the Blessed Nile,-as notably fails too at this season to arouse enthusiasm. You see nothing but muddy waters, dusty banks, a sand mist, a milky sky, and a glaring sun: You can only just distinguish through a veil of reeking vapours the village Shibr Katt from the village Kafr al-Zayyat, and you steam too far from Wardan town to enjoy the Timonic satisfaction of enraging its male population with "Haykal!

To me there was double dulness in the scenery: On the banks, saline ground sparkled and glittered like hoar-frost in the sun; and here and there mud villages, solitary huts, pigeon-towers, or watch turrets, whence little brown boys shouted and slung stones at the birds, peeped out from among bright green patches of palm-tree, tamarisk, and mimosa, of maize, tobacco, and sugar-cane. Beyond the narrow tongue of land on the river banks lay the glaring, yellow Desert, with its low hills and sand slopes, bounded by innumerable pyramids of Nature's architecture.

The boats, with their sharp bows, preposterous sterns, and lateen sails, might have belonged to the Indus. So might the chocolate-skinned, blue-robed peasantry; the women carrying progeny on their hips, with the eternal waterpot on their heads; and the men sleeping in the shade or following the plough, to which probably Osiris first put hand. The lower animals, like the higher, were the same; gaunt, mange-stained camels, muddy buffaloes, scurvied donkeys, sneaking jackals, and fox-like dogs.

Even the feathered creatures were perfectly familiar to my eye-. I had taken a third-class or deck-passage, whereby the evils of the journey were exasperated. A roasting sun pierced the canvas awning like hot water through a gauze veil, and by night the cold dews fell raw and thick as a Scotch mist. The cooking was abominable, and the dignity of Darwaysh-hood did not allow me to sit at meat with Infidels or to eat the food which they had polluted. So the Pilgrim squatted apart, smoking perpetually, with occasional interruptions to say his prayers and to tell his beads upon the mighty rosary; and he drank the muddy water of the canal out of a leathern bucket, and he munched his bread and garlic[FN 4] with a desperate sanctimoniousness.

The "Little Asthmatic" was densely crowded, and discipline not daring to mark out particular places, the scene on board of her was motley enough. There were two Indian officers, who naturally spoke to none but each other, drank bad tea, and smoked their cigars exclusively. A troop of the Kurd Kawwas,[FN 5] escorting treasure, was surrounded by a group of noisy Greeks; these men's gross practical jokes sounding anything but pleasant to the solemn Moslems, whose saddle-bags and furniture were at every moment in danger of being defiled by abominable drinks and the ejected juices of tobacco.

There was one pretty woman on board, a Spanish girl, who looked strangely misplaced-a rose in a field of thistles. Some silent Italians, with noisy interpreters, sat staidly upon the benches. It was soon found out, through the communicative dragoman, that their business was to buy horses for H.

Besides these was a German, a "beer-bottle in the morning and a bottle of beer in the evening," to borrow a simile from his own nation; a Syrian merchant, the richest and ugliest of Alexandria; and a few French house-painters going to decorate the Pasha's palace at Shubra. These last were the happiest of our voyagers,-veritable children of Paris, Montagnards, Voltaireans, and thoroughbred Sans-Soucis.

All day they sat upon deck chattering as only their lively nation can chatter, indulging in ultra-gallic maxims, such as "on ne vieillit jamais a table;" now playing ecarte for love or nothing, then composing "des ponches un peu chiques;" now reciting adventures of the category "Mirabolant," then singing, then dancing, then sleeping, and rising to play, to drink, talk, dance, and sing again.

A large shopkeeper threatened to "briser" my "figure" for putting my pipe near his pantaloons; but seeing me finger my dagger curiously, though I did not shift my pipe, he forgot to remember his threat. I had taken charge of a parcel for one M. P-, a student of Coptic, and remitted it to him on board; of this little service the only acknowledgment was a stare and a petulant inquiry why I had not given it to him before.

And one of the Englishmen, half publicly, half privily, as though communing with himself, condemned my organs of vision because I happened to touch his elbow. He was a man in my own service; I pardoned him in consideration of the compliment paid to my disguise. Two fellow-passengers were destined to play an important part in my comedy of Cairo. Just after we had started, a little event afforded us some amusement. On the bank appeared a short, crummy, pursy kind of man, whose efforts to board the steamer were notably ridiculous. With attention divided between the vessel and a carpet-bag carried by his donkey boy, he ran along the sides of the canal, now stumbling into hollows, then climbing heights, then standing shouting upon the projections with the fierce sun upon his back, till everyone thought his breath was completely gone.

His sooty complexion, lank black hair, features in which appeared beaucoup de finesse, that is to say, abundant rascality, an eternal smile and treacherous eyes, his gold[FN 6] ring, dress. When he awoke he introduced himself to me as Miyan Khudabakhsh Namdar, a native of Lahore: My second friend, Haji Wali, I will introduce to the reader in a future chapter; and my two expeditions to Midian have brought him once more into notice.

Long conversations in Persian and Hindustani abridged the tediousness of the voyage, and when we arrived at Bulak, the polite Khudabakhsh insisted upon my making his house my home. I was unwilling to accept the man's civility, disliking his looks; but he advanced cogent reasons for changing my mind. His servant cleared my luggage through the custom-house, and a few minutes after our arrival I found myself in his abode near the Azbakiyah Gardens, sitting in a cool Mashrabiyah[FN 8] that gracefully projected over a garden, and sipping the favourite glass of pomegranate syrup.

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As the Wakalahs or Caravanserais were at that time full of pilgrims, I remained with Khudabakhsh ten days or a fortnight. But at the end of that time my patience was thoroughly exhausted. My host had become a civilised man, who sat on chairs, who ate with a fork, who talked European politics, and who had learned to admire, if not to understand, liberty-liberal ideas! Besides which, we English have a. Observing our solitary habits, that we could not, and would not, sit and talk and sip sherbet and smoke with them, they called us "Jangli"-wild men, fresh caught in the jungle and sent to rule over the land of Hind.

The very essence of Oriental hospitality, however, is this family style of reception, which costs your host neither coin nor trouble. I speak of the rare tracts in which the old barbarous hospitality still lingers. You make one more at his eating tray, and an additional mattress appears in the sleeping-room. When you depart, you leave if you like a little present, merely for a memorial, with your entertainer; he would be offended if you offered it him openly as a remuneration, and you give. Thus you will be welcome wherever you go.

If perchance you are detained perforce in such a situation,-which may easily happen to you, medical man,-you have only to make yourself as disagreeable as possible, by calling for all manner of impossible things. Shame is a passion with Eastern nations. Your host would blush to point out to you the indecorum of your conduct; and the laws of hospitality oblige him to supply the every want of a guest, even though he be a detenu.

But of all Orientals, the most antipathetical companion to an Englishman is, I believe, an East-Indian. Like the fox in the fable, fulsomely flattering at first, he gradually becomes easily friendly, disagreeably familiar, offensively rude, which ends by rousing the "spirit of the British lion. But after leaving the room, he is as different from his former self as a counsel in court from a counsel at a concert, a sea captain at a club dinner from a sea captain on his quarter-deck.

Then he will discover that the English are not brave, nor clever, nor generous, nor civilised, nor anything but surpassing rogues; that every official takes bribes, that their manners are utterly offensive, and that they are rank infidels. Then he will descant complacently upon the probability of a general Bartholomew's Day in the East, and look forward to the hour when enlightened Young India will arise and drive the "foul invader" from the land.

If the Indian has been a European traveller, so much the worse for you. He has blushed to own,-explaining, however , conquest by bribery,-that 50, Englishmen hold ,, of his compatriots in thrall, and for aught you know, republicanism may have become his idol. He has lost all fear of the white face, and having been accustomed to unburden his mind in.

His doctrines of liberty and. If-and how he prays for it! And the Persians apply the following pithy tale to their neighbours. Allah is bounteous,[FN 15] brother! Woe to the unhappy Englishman, Pasha, or private soldier, who must serve an Eastern lord! Worst of all, if the master be an Indian, who, hating all Europeans,[FN 16] [p. Even the experiment of associating with them is almost too hard to bear. But a useful deduction may be drawn from such observations; and as few have had greater experience than myself, I venture to express my opinion with confidence, however unpopular or unfashionable it may be.

I am convinced that the natives of India cannot respect a European who mixes with them familiarly, or especially who imitates their customs, manners, and dress. The tight pantaloons, the authoritative voice, the pococurante manner, and the broken Hindustani impose upon them-have a weight which learning and honesty, which wit and courage, have not. This is to them the master's attitude: Such would never be the case amongst a brave people, the Afghan for instance; and for the same reason it is not so, we read, with "White Plume," the North American Indian.

The Afghans and American aborigines, being chivalrous races, rather exaggerate the valour of their foes, because by so doing they exalt their own. The very mention of his name affronts the brave Wardanenses to the last extent, making them savage as Oxford bargees. It was intended to act as a dam, raising the waters of the Nile and conducting them to Suez, the salt lakes, and a variety of other places, through a number of canals, which, however, have not yet been opened.

Meanwhile, it acts upon the river's trunk as did the sea of old upon its embouchures, blocking it up and converting the land around it to the condition of a swamp. Moreover, it would have cleaned out the bed by means of sluice gates, forming an artificial increase of current to draw off the deposit; but the gates are wanting, so the piers, serving only to raise the soil by increasing the deposit of silt, collect and detain suspended matter, which otherwise would not settle. Briefly, by a trifling expenditure the Barrage might be made a blessing to Egypt; in its present state it is a calamity, an "enormous, cruel wonder," more crushing to the people than were the pyramids and sphinxes of old.

The old Egyptians highly esteemed this vegetable, which, with onions and leeks, enters into the list of articles so much regretted by the Hebrews Numbers, xi. The modern people of the Nile, like the Spaniards, delight in onions, which, as they contain between 25 and 30 per cent. In Arabia, however, the stranger must use this vegetable sparingly. The city people despise it as the food of a Fellah-a boor.

The Wahhabis have a prejudice against onions, leeks, and garlic, because the Prophet disliked their strong smell, and all strict Moslems refuse to eat them immediately before visiting the mosque, or meeting for public prayer. But they are growing out of fashion with young Egypt, disappearing before heating glass and unsightly green blinds. Hence, nothing can be more terrible to a man than expulsion from caste; the excommunication of our feudal times was not a more dreadful form of living death. But caste divides a people into huge families, each member of which has a right to know everything about his "caste-brother," because a whole body might be polluted and degraded by the act of an individual.

Hence, there is no such thing as domestic privacy, and no system of espionnage devised by rulers could be so complete as that self-imposed by the Hindus.

Concentric Circles of Identity

Popular feeling towards the English in India was "at first one of fear, afterwards of horror: Hindus and Hindis Moslems considered the strangers a set of cow-eaters and fire-drinkers, tetrae beluae ac molossis suis ferociores, who would fight like Iblis, cheat their own fathers, and exchange with the same readiness a broadside of shots and thrusts of boarding-pikes, or a bale of goods and a bag of rupees. Anderson-The English in Western India. We have risen in a degree above such a low standard of estimation; still, incredible as it may appear to the Frank himself, it is no less true, that the Frank everywhere in the East is considered a contemptible being, and dangerous withal.

As regards Indian opinion concerning our government, my belief is, that in and immediately about the three presidencies, where the people owe everything to and hold everything by our rule, it is most popular. At the same time I am convinced that in other places the people would most willingly hail any change. And how can we hope it to be otherwise,-we, a nation of strangers, aliens to the country's customs and creed, who, even while resident in India, act the part which absentees do in other lands?

Where, in the history of the world, do we read that such foreign dominion ever made itself loved? I also sent into the Court of Directors a much stronger report-for which I duly suffered. If Rangit Singh behaved better to his European officers, it was only on account of his paramount fear and hatred of the British.

The Panjabi story of the old lion's death is amusing enough, contrasted with that Anglomania of which so much has been said and written. When the Sikh king, they declare, heard of our success in Afghanistan-he had allowed us a passage through his dominions, as ingress into a deadly trap-his spirits metaphorically and literally failed him; he had not the heart to drink, he sickened and he died. THE "Wakalah," as the Caravanserai or Khan is called in Egypt, combines the offices of hotel, lodging-house, and store. It is at Cairo, as at Constantinople, a massive pile of buildings surrounding a quadrangular "Hosh" or court-yard.

On the ground-floor are rooms like caverns for merchandise, and shops of different kinds-tailors, cobblers, bakers, tobacconists, fruiterers, and others. A roofless gallery or a covered verandah, into which all the apartments open, runs round the first and sometimes the second story: The accommodations consist of sets of two or three rooms, generally an inner one and an outer; the latter contains a hearth for cooking, a bathing-place, and similar necessaries.

The staircases are high, narrow, and exceedingly dirty; dark at night, and often in bad repair; a goat or donkey is tethered upon the different landings; here and there a fresh skin is stretched in process of tanning, and the smell reminds the veteran traveller of those closets in the old French.

The interior is unfurnished; even the pegs upon which clothes are hung have been pulled down for fire-wood: In the court-yard the poorer sort of travellers consort with tethered beasts of burden, beggars howl, and slaves lie basking and scratching themselves upon mountainous heaps of cotton bales and other merchandise.

This is not a tempting picture, yet is the Wakalah a most amusing place, presenting a succession of scenes which would delight lovers of the Dutch school-a rich exemplification of the grotesque, and what is called by artists the "dirty picturesque. I could find no room in the Wakalah Khan Khalil, the Long's, or Meurice's of native Cairo; I was therefore obliged to put up with the Jamaliyah, a Greek quarter, swarming with drunken Christians, and therefore about as fashionable as Oxford Street or Covent Garden.

Even for this I had to wait a week. The pilgrims were flocking to Cairo, and to none other would the prudent hotel keepers open their doors, for the following sufficient reasons. When you enter a Wakalah, the first thing you have to do is to pay a small sum, varying from two to five shillings, for the Miftah the key.

This is generally equivalent to a month's rent; so the sooner you leave the house the better for it. I was obliged to call myself a Turkish pilgrim in order to get possession of two most comfortless rooms, which I afterwards learned were celebrated for making travellers ill; and I had to pay eighteen piastres for the key and eighteen ditto per mensem for.

So that for this month my house-hire amounted to nearly four pence a day. But I was fortunate enough in choosing the Jamaliyah Wakalah, for I found a friend there. On board the steamer a fellow-voyager, seeing me sitting alone and therefore as he conceived in discomfort, placed himself by my side and opened a hot fire of kind inquiries. He was a man about forty-five, of middle size, with a large round head closely shaven, a bull-neck, limbs sturdy as a Saxon's, a thin red beard, and handsome features beaming with benevolence.

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A curious dry humour he had, delighting in "quizzing," but in so quiet, solemn, and quaint a way that before you knew him you could scarcely divine his drift. I was fairly taken in by the pious ejaculation, and some days elapsed before the drift of his remark became apparent. A man goes to you for ophthalmia: Is it for fever? I am as good a physician as the best of you," he would add with a broad grin, "if I only knew the Dirham-birhams,[FN 1]-drams and drachms,-and a few break-jaw Arabic names of diseases.

When we lived under the same roof, the Haji and I became fast friends. During the day we called on each other frequently, we dined together, and passed the evening in a Mosque, or some other place of public pastime. Coyly at first, but less guardedly as we grew bolder, we smoked the forbidden weed "Hashish,[FN 3]" conversing lengthily the while about that world of which I had seen so much. Originally from Russia, he also had been a traveller, and in his wanderings he had cast off most of the prejudices of his people. When I entered the Wakalah, he constituted himself my cicerone, and especially guarded me against the cheating of trades-men.

By his advice I laid aside the Darwaysh's gown, the large blue pantaloons, and the short shirt; in fact all connection with Persia and the Persians. To support the character requires a knowledge of Persian, Hindustani and Arabic, all of which I knew sufficiently well to pass muster; any trifling inaccuracy was charged upon my long residence at Rangoon. This was an important step; the first question at the shop, on the camel, and in the Mosque, is "What is thy name? But this is rarely necessary. I assumed the polite, pliant manners of an Indian physician, and the dress of a small Effendi or gentleman , still, however, representing myself to be a Darwaysh, and frequenting the places where Darwayshes congregate.

Call yourself a religious wanderer if you like, and let those who ask the object of your peregrinations know that you are under a vow to visit all the holy places in Al-Islam. Thus you will persuade them that you are a. The remark proved his sagacity; and after ample experience I had not to repent having been guided by his advice.

Haji Wali, by profession a merchant at Alexandria, had accompanied Khudabakhsh, the Indian, to Cairo on law-business. He soon explained his affairs to me, and as his case brought out certain Oriental peculiarities in a striking light, with his permission I offer a few of its details. My friend was defendant in a suit instituted against him in H.

This man lived, and lived well, by setting up in business at places where his name was not known; he enticed the unwary by artful displays of capital; and, after succeeding in getting credit, he changed residence, carrying off all he could lay hands upon. But swindling is a profession of personal danger in uncivilised countries, where law punishes pauper debtors by a short imprisonment; and where the cheated prefer to gratify their revenge by the cudgel or the knife. So Mohammed Shafi'a, after a few narrow escapes, hit upon a prime expedient.

Though known to be a native of Bokhara-he actually signed himself so in his letters, and his appearance at once bespoke his origin,-he determined to protect himself by a British passport. Our officials are sometimes careless enough in distributing these documents, and by so doing they expose themselves to a certain loss of reputation at Eastern courts[FN 5]; still Mohammed Shafi'a. To recount all his Reynardisms would weary the reader; suffice it to say that by proper management of the subalterns in the consulate, he succeeded without ruining himself.

Armed with this new defence, he started boldly for Jeddah on the Arabian coast. Having entered into partnership with Haji Wali, whose confidence he had won by prayers, fastings, and pilgrimages, he openly trafficked in slaves, sending them to Alexandria for sale, and writing with matchless impudence to his correspondent that he would dispose of them in person, but for fear of losing his British passport and protection.

Presently an unlucky adventure embroiled this worthy British subject with Faraj Yusuf, the principal merchant of Jeddah, and also an English protege. Fearing so powerful an adversary, Mohammed Shafi'a packed up his spoils and departed for Egypt. Presently he quarrels with his former partner, thinking him a soft man, and claims from him a debt of L He supports his pretensions by a document and four witnesses, who are ready to swear that the receipt in question was "signed, sealed, and delivered" by Haji Wali.

The latter adduces his books to show that accounts have been settled, and can prove that the witnesses in question are paupers, therefore, not legal; moreover, that each has received from the plaintiff two dollars, the price of perjury. But the latter was a British subject, which notably influenced the question. The more to annoy his adversary, he went up to Cairo, and began proceedings there, hoping by this acute step to receive part payment of his demand.

Arrived at Cairo, Mohammed Shafi'a applied himself stoutly to the task of bribing all who could be useful to him, distributing shawls and piastres with great generosity. He secured the services of an efficient lawyer; and, determining to enlist heaven itself in his cause, he passed the Ramazan ostentatiously; he fasted, and he slaughtered sheep to feed the poor.

Meanwhile Haji Wali, a simple truth-telling man, who could never master the rudiments of that art which teaches man to blow hot and to blow cold with the same breath, had been persuaded to visit Cairo by Khudabakhsh, the wily Indian, who promised to introduce him to influential persons, and to receive him in his house till he could provide himself with a lodging at the Wakalah. But Mohammed Shafi'a, who had once been in partnership with the Indian, and who possibly knew more than was fit to meet the public ear, found this out; and, partly by begging, partly by bullying, persuaded Khudabakhsh to transfer the influential introductions to himself.

Then the Hakim[FN 6] Abdullah-your humble servant-appears upon the scene: Upon which Khudabakhsh ashamed, or rather afraid of his duplicity, collects his Indian friends. The Hakim Abdullah draws up a petition. M's Consul by the Indian merchants and others resident at Cairo, informing him of Mohammed Shafi'a's birth, character, and occupation as a vendor of slaves, offering proof of all assertions, and praying him for the sake of their good name to take away his passport. And all the Indians affix their seals to this paper.

Then Mohammed Shafi'a threatens to waylay and to beat the Haji. The Haji, not loud or hectoringly, but with a composed smile, advises his friends to hold him off. One would suppose that such a document would have elicited some inquiry. But Haji Wali was a Persian protege, and proceedings between the Consulates had commenced before the petition was presented.

The pseudo-British subject, having been acknowledged as a real one, must be supported. Consuls, like kings, may err, but must not own to error. No notice was taken of the Indian petition; worse still, no inquiry into the slave-affair was set on foot[FN 7]; and it was discovered that the passport having been granted by a Consul-General could not with official etiquette be resumed by a Consul. Mohammed Shafi'a had offered 5, piastres to the Persian Consul's interpreter; this of course was refused, but still somehow or other all the Haji's affairs seemed to go wrong.

His statements were mistranslated, his accounts were misunderstood, and the suit was allowed to drag on to a suspicious length. When I left Cairo in July, Haji Wali had been kept away nearly two months from his business and family, though both parties-for the plaintiff's purse was rapidly thinning-appeared eager to settle the difference by arbitration: Such is a brief history, but too common, of a case in which the subject of an Eastern state has to contend against British influence. It is doubtless a point of honour to defend our proteges from injustice, but the higher principle should rest upon the base of common honesty.

The worst part of such a case is, that the injured party has no redress. And, saving the rare exceptions where rank or wealth command consideration, with what face, to use the native phrase, would a hapless Turk appeal to the higher powers, our ministers or our Parliament? After lodging myself in the Wakalah, my first object was to make a certain stir in the world. In Europe your travelling doctor advertises the loss of a diamond ring, the gift of a Russian autocrat; or he monopolises a whole column in a newspaper, feeing perhaps a title for the use of a signature; the large brass plate, the gold-headed cane, the rattling chariot, and the summons from the sermon complete the work.

Here, there is no such Royal. You must begin by sitting with the porter, who is sure to have blear eyes, into which you drop a little nitrate of silver, whilst you instil into his ear the pleasing intelligence that you never take a fee from the poor. He recovers; his report of you spreads far and wide, crowding your doors with paupers. They come to you as though you were their servant, and when cured they turn their backs upon you for ever.

Hence it is that European doctors generally complain of ingratitude on the part of their Oriental patients. It is true that if you save a man's life, he naturally asks you for the means of preserving it. Moreover, in none of the Eastern languages with which I am acquainted is there a single term conveying the meaning of our "gratitude," and none but Germans[FN 9] have ideas unexplainable by words. But you must not condemn this absence of a virtue without considering the cause. An Oriental deems that he has the right to your surplus.

Thus it is with other things. He is thankful to Allah for the gifts of the Creator, but he has a claim to the good offices of a fellow-creature. In rendering him a service you have but done your duty, and he would not pay you so poor a compliment as to praise you for the act.

He leaves you, his benefactor, with a short prayer for the length of your days. And this is probably the last you hear of him. In theory, I say, not in practice. Human nature feels kindness is displayed to return it in kind. But Easterns do not carry out the idea of such obligations as we do. What can be more troublesome than, when you have obliged a man, to run the gauntlet of his and his family's thanksgivings, to find yourself become a master from being a friend, a great man when you were an equal; not to be contradicted, where shortly before every one gave his opinion freely?

You must be unamiable if these considerations deter you from benefiting your friend; yet, I humbly opine, you still may fear his gratefulness. When the mob has raised you to fame, patients of a better class will slowly appear on the scene. After some coquetting about "etiquette," whether you are to visit them, or they are to call upon you, they make up their minds to see you, and to judge with their eyes whether you are to be trusted or not; whilst you, on your side, set out with the determination that they shall at once cross the Rubicon,-in less classical phrase, swallow your drug.

If you visit the house, you insist upon the patient's servants attending you; he must also provide and pay an ass for your conveyance, no matter if it be only to the other side of the street. Your confidential man accompanies you, primed for replies to the "fifty searching questions" of the "servants' hall. Arrived at the sick room, you salute those present with a general "Peace be upon you! Then inquiry about the state of your health ensues. Then you are asked what refreshment you will take: Then you proceed to the patient, who extends his wrist, and asks you what his complaint is.

Then you examine his tongue, you feel his pulse, you look learned, and-he is talking all the time-after hearing a detailed list of all his ailments, you gravely discover them, taking for the same as much praise to yourself as does the practising phrenologist for a similar simple exercise of the reasoning faculties. The disease, to be respectable, must invariably be connected with one of the four temperaments, or the four elements, or the "humours of Hippocrates. If you would pass for a native practitioner, you must finally proceed to the most uncomfortable part of your visit, bargaining for fees.

Nothing more effectually arouses suspicion than disinterestedness in a doctor. I once cured a rich Hazramaut merchant of rheumatism, and neglected to make him pay for treatment; he carried off one of my coffee cups, and was unceasingly wondering where I came from. So I made him produce five piastres, a shilling, which he threw upon the carpet, cursing Indian avarice. Properly speaking, the fee for a visit to a respectable man is 20 piastres, but with the rich patient you begin by making a bargain.

He complains, for instance, of dysentery and sciatica. You demand L10 for the dysentery, and L20 for the sciatica. But you will rarely get it. The Eastern pays a doctor's bill as an Oirishman does his "rint," making a grievance of it. Your patient will show indisputable signs of convalescence: Then your way is to throw out some such hint as.

And you refuse to treat the second disorder, which conduct may bring the refractory one to his senses. Whatever you prescribe must be solid and material, and if you accompany it with something painful, such as rubbing to scarification with a horse-brush, so much the better. Easterns, like our peasants in Europe, wish the doctor to "give them the value of their money. So the Hakim of the King of Persia cured fevers by the bastinado; patients are beneficially baked in a bread-oven at Baghdad; and an Egyptian at Alexandria, whose quartan resisted the strongest appliances of European physic, was effectually healed by the actual cautery, which a certain Arab Shaykh applied to the crown of his head.

When you administer with your own hand the remedy-half-a-dozen huge bread pills, dipped in a solution of aloes or cinnamon water, flavoured with assafoetida, which in the case of the dyspeptic rich often suffice, if they will but. But afterwards let him take bees-honey and cinnamon and album graecum, of each half a part, and of ginger a whole part, which let him pound and mix with the honey, and form boluses, each bolus the weight of a Miskal, and of it let him use every day a Miskal on the saliva. And let him abstain from flesh, fish, vegetables, sweetmeats, flatulent food, acids of all descriptions, as well as the major ablution, and live in perfect quiet.

So shall he be cured by the help of the King, the Healer. The diet, I need scarcely say, should be rigorous; nothing has tended more to bring the European system of medicine into contempt among Orientals than our inattention to this branch of the therapeutic art. When an Hindi or a Hindu "takes medicine," he prepares himself for it by diet and rest two or three days before adhibition, and as gradually, after the dose, he relapses into his usual habits; if he break through the regime it is concluded that fatal results must ensue.

The ancient Egyptians we learn from Herodotus devoted a certain number of days in each month to the use of alteratives, and the. The Persians, when under salivation, shut themselves up in a warm room, never undress, and so carefully guard against cold that they even drink tepid water. When the prescription is written out, you affix an impression of your ring seal to the beginning and to the end of it, that no one may be able to add to or take from its contents. And when you send medicine to a patient of rank, who is sure to have enemies, you adopt some similar precaution against the box or the bottle being opened.

One of the Pashas whom I attended,-a brave soldier who had been a favourite with Mohammed Ali, and therefore was degraded by his successor,-kept an impression of my ring in wax, to compare with that upon the phials. Men have not forgotten how frequently, in former times, those who became obnoxious to the State were seized with sudden and fatal cramps in the stomach. In the case of the doctor it is common prudence to adopt these precautions, as all evil consequences would be charged upon him, and he would be exposed to the family's revenge.

Cairo, though abounding in medical practitioners, can still support more; but to thrive they must be Indians, Chinese, or Maghrabis. The Egyptians are thoroughly disgusted with European treatment, which is here about as efficacious as in India-that is to say, not at all. But they are ignorant of the medicine of Hind, and therefore great is its name; deservedly perhaps, for skill in simples and dietetics. Besides which the Indian. The traveller who, on the banks of the Seine, scoffs at Sights and Sounds, Table-turning and Spirit-rapping, sees in the wilds of Tartary and Thibet a something supernatural and diabolical in the bungling Sie-fa of the Bokte.

In our West African colonies the phrase "growing black" was applied to colonists, who, after a term of residence, became thoroughly imbued with the superstitions of the land. And there are not wanting old Anglo-Indians, intelligent men, that place firm trust in tales and tenets too puerile even for the Hindus to believe. As a "Hindi" I could use animal magnetism, taking care, however, to give the science a specious supernatural appearance. Haji Wali, who, professing positive scepticism, showed the greatest interest in the subject as a curiosity, advised me not to practise pure mesmerism; otherwise, that I should infallibly become a "Companion of Devils.

The Haji repaid me for my docility by vaunting me everywhere as the very phoenix of physicians. My first successes were in the Wakalah; opposite to me there lived an Arab slave dealer, whose Abyssinians constantly fell sick. A tender race, they suffer when first transported to Egypt from many complaints, especially consumption, dysentery and varicose veins. I succeeded in curing one girl. As she was worth at least fifteen pounds, the gratitude of her owner was great, and I had to dose half a dozen others in order to cure them of the pernicious and price-lowering habit of snoring.

Living in rooms opposite these slave girls, and seeing them at all hours of the day and night, I had frequent opportunities of studying them. They were average specimens of the steato-pygous Abyssinian breed, broad-shouldered, thin-flanked, fine-limbed, and with haunches of a prodigious size. None of them had handsome features, but the short curly hair that stands on end being concealed under a kerchief, there was something pretty in the brow, eyes, and upper part of the nose, coarse and sensual in the pendent lips, large jowl and projecting mouth, whilst the whole had a combination of piquancy with sweetness.

Their style of flirtation was peculiar. Most effectual gag to Cupid's eloquence! Yet was not the plain-spoken Maryam's reply without its moral. How often is it our fate, in the West as in the East, to see in bright eyes and to hear from rosy lips an implied, if not an expressed, "Why don't you buy me? All I required in return for my services from the slave-dealer, whose brutal countenance and manners were truly repugnant, was to take me about the town, and explain to me certain mysteries in his craft, which knowledge might be useful in time to come.

Little did he suspect who his interrogator was, and freely in his unsuspiciousness he entered upon the subject of slave hunting in the Somali country, and Zanzibar, of all things the most interesting to me. I have, however, nothing new to report concerning the present state of bondsmen in Egypt. England has already learned that slaves are not necessarily the most wretched and degraded of men.

Some have been bold enough to tell the British public that, in the generality of Oriental countries,[FN 19] the serf fares far. Slaves are considered members of the family, and in houses where free servants are also kept, they seldom do any other work than filling the pipes, presenting the coffee, accompanying their master when going out, rubbing his feet when he takes his nap in the afternoon, and driving away the flies from him. When a slave is not satisfied, he can legally compel his master to sell him.

He has no care for food, lodging, clothes and washing, and has no taxes to pay; he is exempt from military service and soccage, and in spite of his bondage is freer than the freest Fellah in Egypt. A certain amount of reputation was the consequence of curing the Abyssinian girls: Servants are most troublesome things to all Englishmen in Egypt, but especially to one travelling as a respectable native, and therefore expected to have slaves.

After much deliberation, I resolved to take a Berberi,[FN 21]. The list of sine qua nons was necessarily rather an extensive one,-good health and a readiness to travel anywhere, a little skill in cooking, sewing and washing, willingness to fight, and a habit of regular prayers. After a day's delay the Shaykh brought me a specimen of his choosing, a broad-shouldered, bandy-legged fellow, with the usual bull-dog expression of the Berberis, in his case rendered doubly expressive by the drooping of an eyelid-an accident brought about with acrid juice in order to avoid conscription.

He responded sturdily to all my questions. Some Egyptian donkey boys and men were making a noise in the room at the time, and the calm ferocity with which he ejected them commanded my approval. When a needle, thread, and an unhemmed napkin were handed to him, he sat down, held the edge of the cloth between his big toe and its neighbour, and finished the work in quite a superior style. Walking out, he armed himself with a Kurbaj, which he used, now lightly, then heavily, upon all laden animals, biped and quadruped, that came in the way.

His conduct proving equally satisfactory in the kitchen, after getting security from him, and having his name registered by the Shaykh,[FN 22] I closed with him for eighty piastres a. But Ali the Berberi and I were destined to part. Before a fortnight he stabbed his fellow servant-a Surat lad, who wishing to return home forced his services upon me-and for this trick he received, with his dismissal, blows on the feet by order of the Zabit, or police magistrate. Recommended by different Shaykhs, all had some fatal defect; one cheated recklessly, another robbed me, a third drank, a fourth was always in scrapes for infringing the Julian edict, and the last, a long-legged Nubian, after remaining two days in the house, dismissed me for expressing.

I kept one man; he complained that he was worked to death: Elwes said of old, to serve myself. At last, thoroughly tired of Egyptian domestics, and one servant being really sufficient for comfort, as well as suitable to my assumed rank, I determined to keep only the Indian boy. He had all the defects of his nation; a brave at Cairo, he was an arrant coward at Al-Madinah; the Badawin despised him heartily for his effeminacy in making his camel kneel to dismount, and he could not keep his hands from picking and stealing.

But the choice had its advantages: As master and man we performed the pilgrimage together; but, on my return to Egypt after the pilgrimage, Shaykh become Haji Nur, finding me to be a Sahib,[FN 25] changed for the worse. He would not work, and reserved all his energy for the purpose of pilfering, which he practised so audaciously upon my friends, as well as upon myself, that he could not be kept in the house. Perhaps the reader may be curious to see the necessary expenses of a bachelor residing at Cairo. He must observe, however, in the following list that I was not a strict economist, and, besides that, I was a stranger in the country: In these days who at Cairo without a Shaykh?

I thought it right to conform to popular custom, and accordingly, after having secured a servant, my efforts were directed to finding a teacher; the pretext being that as an Indian doctor I wanted to read Arabic works on medicine, as well as to perfect myself in divinity and pronunciation. This, together with the original mistake of appearing publicly at Alexandria as a "Mirza" in a Persian dress, caused me infinite small annoyance at Cairo, in spite of all precautions and contrivances.

And throughout my journey, even in Arabia, though I drew my knife every time an offensive hint was thrown out, the ill-fame clung to me like the shirt of Nessus. It was not long before I happened to hit upon a proper teacher, in the person of Shaykh Mohammed al-Attar, or the "Druggist. But His Highness the late Pasha had dismissed him, which disastrous event, with its subsequent train of misfortunes, he dates from the melancholy day when he took to himself a wife. He talks of her abroad as a stern and rigid master dealing with a naughty slave, though, by the look that accompanies his rhodomontade, I am convinced that at home he is the very model of "managed men.

His little shop in the Jamaliyah Quarter is a perfect gem of Nilotic queerness. A hole, about five feet long. The inner box, germ of a back parlour, acts as store-room, as the pile of empty old baskets tossed in dusty confusion upon the dirty floor shows. In the front is displayed the stock in trade, a matting full of Persian tobacco and pipe-bowls of red clay, a palm-leaf bag containing vile coffee and large lumps of coarse, whity-brown sugar wrapped up in browner paper.

On the shelves and ledges are rows of well-thumbed wooden boxes, labelled with the greatest carelessness, pepper for rhubarb, arsenic for Tafl, or wash-clay, and sulphate of iron where sal-ammoniac should be. There is also a square case containing, under lock and key, small change and some choice articles of commerce, damaged perfumes, bad antimony for the eyes, and pernicious rouge. And dangling close above it is a rusty pair of scales, ill poised enough for Egyptian Themis herself to use.

To hooks over the shop-front are suspended reeds for pipes, tallow candles, dirty wax tapers and cigarette paper; instead of plate-glass windows and brass-handled doors, a ragged net keeps away the flies when the master is in, and the thieves when he goes out to recite in the Hasanayn Mosque his daily chapter "Ya Sin. His turband, though large, is brown with wear; his coat and small-clothes display many a hole; and, though his face and hands must be frequently washed preparatory to devotion, still they have the quality of looking always unclean.

It is wonderful how fierce and gruff he is to the little boys and girls who flock to him grasping farthings for pepper and sugar. On such occasions I sit admiring to see him, when forced to exertion, wheel about on his place, making a pivot of that portion of our organisation which mainly distinguishes our species from the other families of the Simiadae, to reach some distant drawer, or to pull down a case from its accustomed shelf.

How does he manage to say his prayers, to kneel and to prostrate himself upon that two feet of ragged rug, scarcely sufficient for a British infant to lie upon? He hopelessly owns that he knows nothing of his craft, and the seats before his shop are seldom occupied.